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nano CP X Blade nano CP X Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 10-11-2012, 06:36 AM   #61
Roundhousekickya
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The best rubber glue to use is for glueing tires to the rim on rc cars. its black you can get it at hobby town usa
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:39 PM   #62
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Yes . But i shouldnt have any broke parts. I will try other blades today

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Originally Posted by spiff72 View Post
Would you describe it as the "wet dog" shake while descending under light power?

I don't have my repair parts yet, but I am pretty confident that a bent/cracked main shaft.

Once I get all my new parts I will have a better idea of the source of the problem (I think a bent and/or loose feathering shaft was part of the cause).
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:46 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Heli biggie View Post
Yes . But i shouldnt have any broke parts. I will try other blades today
I have heard reports of main shafts that are not running true out of the box, though...

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Old 10-11-2012, 01:16 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fooferdoggie View Post
Be careful I used the liquid tape on the main battery wires of my mcpx let it dry a hour or more then used some heat shrink to hold them together. Shorted out a battery on the first use.
My heat gun has melted the insulation on pairs of wires within heat shrink before, causing a short. You may find heat was the problem rather than the liquid tape.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:37 PM   #65
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Yes or it melted the liquid tape. But I was careful with the heat.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:47 PM   #66
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The 3d blades didnt make the heli shake. But i did hit the grass, , no damage, and still no,shake, its really helping me with orientation and extra stick time.



Quote:
Originally Posted by spiff72 View Post
I have heard reports of main shafts that are not running true out of the box, though...

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Old 10-14-2012, 03:17 PM   #67
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Ok my nano was acting like the bateries were toast...main rotor and tail rotor were spinning slow..Then the main rotor totally stopped and wouldnt spin up..

I tested baterys they were fine
took out main motor and it was fine
then i reinstalled motor
pluged in all the motor and servo connections

and now it flys better then it did out of the box
2x the power i had to add expos just to fly it in my house

what would have cuased this?
any idea

<edit> Allso right out of the box it would need the batery pluged in like 2-3 times to get light to go solid...now it works first time every time

I hate when i fix something but have now idea how it was fixxed lol
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Old 10-14-2012, 04:36 PM   #68
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Ok , i try to do the flips and stuff to close to the ground when its a small heli. I wrecked it 3 tomes , and now the fs is toast , replaced that and it still has a lil wobble. I guess main shaft???
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:02 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heli biggie View Post
Ok , i try to do the flips and stuff to close to the ground when its a small heli. I wrecked it 3 tomes , and now the fs is toast , replaced that and it still has a lil wobble. I guess main shaft???
You may have tightened the feathering shaft nut too much. Back it off until there is a hair width of end play. Also, make sure main gear is pushed all the way up.
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:35 PM   #70
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Thanks,, will do


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Originally Posted by Jim1946 View Post
You may have tightened the feathering shaft nut too much. Back it off until there is a hair width of end play. Also, make sure main gear is pushed all the way up.
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:56 AM   #71
uberjay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gandal View Post
Ok my nano was acting like the bateries were toast...main rotor and tail rotor were spinning slow..Then the main rotor totally stopped and wouldnt spin up..

I tested baterys they were fine
took out main motor and it was fine
then i reinstalled motor
pluged in all the motor and servo connections

and now it flys better then it did out of the box
2x the power i had to add expos just to fly it in my house

what would have cuased this?
any idea

<edit> Allso right out of the box it would need the batery pluged in like 2-3 times to get light to go solid...now it works first time every time

I hate when i fix something but have now idea how it was fixxed lol
I have something similar... just starting to research here (new to the group). In my case after my last crash I tried a fresh battery and it links to the Tx fine, but then as soon as I try to throttle up the motors stop, the status light on the 3-n-1 goes out, and no response to the Tx. Then after a second or two (if I move the nano -eg. pick it up or something) the status light comes back on and I have Tx control again (all without unplugging/plugging in the flight battery).

I had a similar (sort of) situation with my mCP-X that wound up being an old main motor. So I tried this:

- unplug tail rotor, power up normally, throttle up -> result = same problem/loss of power
- plug tail back in, unplug main motor, power up normally, throttle up -> result = no problems
- plug main motor back in, power up normally, throttle up -> result = problem returned

So, from this I surmise that either my motor is toast after only about _maybe_ 15 - 20 flights (and I'm a noob and just starting into 3d) or something's wrong with the 3-n-1's ESC.

Any thoughts/inputs on this? Before I go spend money on a new main motor or submit a service request, etc. I'd like to see if there's anything else I can try.

Thanks in advance for your help/ideas.
J
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:26 PM   #72
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That would be upsetting, i hope i dont have any problems like that, and i hope you het your fixed.
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Old 10-17-2012, 03:26 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uberjay View Post
Any thoughts/inputs on this? Before I go spend money on a new main motor or submit a service request, etc. I'd like to see if there's anything else I can try.

Thanks in advance for your help/ideas.
J
Coupl'a similar instances I ran into on both my mCPx and nCPx are due to bad solder joints or broken wires. One instance on my mCPx, I got a brand new stock motor and it would sometime spool up and sometimes not. It turned out to be a solder joint issue on the capactor connection. Not very visible to the naked eye, but it wasn't making a good connection - it looked perfectly fine, but would work fine when I press hard on the solder joint. In circuits, this is called a 'cold solder-joint'. To fix it, I simply reflow the solder with a soldering iron.

The other instances are broken wire connected to the battery. It can be anywhere on the wire. If you have a multimeter, use the continuity test on it and wiggle the wire as you have it hooked up on your multimeter. The most common place is actually near the point where the batter wires are soldered to the board, or the point where the wire is soldered to the connector. These seem to be the weakest points. On crashes, the landing gear would sometimes stretch them causing damage to give intermittent issues. Servo wires are similar, particularly the elevator servo. The dab of glue that re-inforce the attachment of the wire to the servo sometimes mask the broken wire or bad/broken solder connection. Again, I'd simply resolder to fix.

Hope this helps as places to look.
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Old 10-17-2012, 09:27 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soonglim View Post
Coupl'a similar instances I ran into on both my mCPx and nCPx are due to bad solder joints or broken wires.

.....

Again, I'd simply resolder to fix.

Hope this helps as places to look.
Thanks that at least gives me something to look for. I have to hope that I haven't fried my board.

J
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:32 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soonglim View Post
Coupl'a similar instances I ran into on both my mCPx and nCPx are due to bad solder joints or broken wires. One instance on my mCPx, I got a brand new stock motor and it would sometime spool up and sometimes not. It turned out to be a solder joint issue on the capactor connection. Not very visible to the naked eye, but it wasn't making a good connection - it looked perfectly fine, but would work fine when I press hard on the solder joint. In circuits, this is called a 'cold solder-joint'. To fix it, I simply reflow the solder with a soldering iron.

The other instances are broken wire connected to the battery. It can be anywhere on the wire. If you have a multimeter, use the continuity test on it and wiggle the wire as you have it hooked up on your multimeter. The most common place is actually near the point where the batter wires are soldered to the board, or the point where the wire is soldered to the connector. These seem to be the weakest points. On crashes, the landing gear would sometimes stretch them causing damage to give intermittent issues. Servo wires are similar, particularly the elevator servo. The dab of glue that re-inforce the attachment of the wire to the servo sometimes mask the broken wire or bad/broken solder connection. Again, I'd simply resolder to fix.

Hope this helps as places to look.
Thanks again for your tips... I think I've finally found the problem. It is the solder joint of the antenna itself! The stock antenna comes wrapped around the frame / canopy pin on that side. So my guess is that over time and a couple crashes the frame twisted and loosened the already cold solder joint there. Then as I would pull off the canopy to try and figure out what was wrong I would wind up wiggling the wire and it would work.... then put the canopy back on, fire it up, and it'd vibrate and fail again.

It all makes sense now: the symptom was that only the motors would lose power, the servos continued to chatter like they normally do, but the Rx status light would go out. What was happening was that the Rx was losing signal and going into fail safe mode. As soon as it vibrated and reconnected long enough it would re-establish link and come back.

As I'm travelling and don't have a soldering iron handy I have been able to loosen the wire off the canopy pin enough and gingerly bent the antenna wire such that it is under constant tension such that the solder joint is on a good spot. So it flies... well enough.

The kicker was that I went and bought a new main and tail motor just to find out they weren't the problem . Oh well.

Hope this is of use to some others here on the thread. I'd consider returning the heli to Horizon, but then I'd be without my heli and I can probably do the repair myself.

Thanks all for your help!
J
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:32 PM   #76
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Hang on to that main motor. You will need another one eventually!

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Old 10-24-2012, 01:34 AM   #77
uberjay
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Originally Posted by spiff72 View Post
Hang on to that main motor. You will need another one eventually!

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Yeah... no kidding. I've read people are having trouble with them wearing out prematurely.

J
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Old 10-24-2012, 06:26 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uberjay View Post
Thanks again for your tips... I think I've finally found the problem. It is the solder joint of the antenna itself!
...
The kicker was that I went and bought a new main and tail motor just to find out they weren't the problem . Oh well.

Hope this is of use to some others here on the thread. I'd consider returning the heli to Horizon, but then I'd be without my heli and I can probably do the repair myself.

Thanks all for your help!
J
Another tidbit I learn from my mCPx, which may also be applicable on the nCPx,...after many crashes, I was getting intermitting binding issues. It wasn't like your antenna issue, but was worst. The blue light would come on and then go off, wouldn't flash. It seemed the receiver chip on the 3-in-1 was damaged somehow, but looking at it with a magnifying glass didn't show any signs of damage, wasn't fried nor have cracks in the package. My hunch told me it may have been knock loose off the board - or at least some pins off of a solder pad on the board. So I took out my heat gun, set it on high (1000degF), brush on a bit of solder resin on around the chip, and heated the chip and its surrounding area while pressing lightly on the chip with a pair of (steel) tweezers. I let the heat gun blow on it for 5 to 6 seconds at a time for a few times to the point where the solder resin bubbles evenly. And that did the trick. Saved myself from having to spent $70 on a new 3-in-1 board. One must be careful not to over head the board too much to damage other plastic parts or inadvertantly loosen other soldered parts. But you really would have nothing to lose since your 3-in-1 is not working anyways. Another important note is make sure the surface you blowing the heat gun on can withstand the 1000degF heat. I used one of those silicone cookie baking sheets to shield my wooden workbench.
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:20 PM   #79
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My nano spools up but only to what sounds like 2/3 normal head speed in idle up even at zero pitch and then will rev up to the correct rpm for 5-8 seconds then kick back down and soon as I somewhat load the motor up the main board shuts down.

It has about 30 something flights and the batteries I'm using are the the stock eflite ones all new when I bought the ncp so its not the batteries. I'm guessing its the main motor? Any ideas?

If others have had the same issue then info about it should be added to the first post.
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:45 PM   #80
Matt L
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Yes, sounds like the motor is going. You might call HH, as 30 flights is pretty short and some people have gotten new motors from them, both for original and replacement motors failing early.

While 30 flights is too short, 100 might be average. Expect to feed this thing a steady diet of motors.
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