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nano CP X Brushless Mods Blade nano CP X Brushless Mods Information and Help


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Old 10-05-2012, 06:47 AM   #1
Ampdraw
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Default Brushless Nano Cpx. Post your setup and discussion thread.

First Hf nano bl thread here http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=455791

Virtual modding mine but as soon as it arrives I'm sure I'll be compelled to mod it for efficiency, weight and longevity. Plan to keep tail brushed as I can't see any gain under criteria stated for bl tail while keeping this heli suited for design purpose. Indoor 3d..

Major bummer original thread was perceived as it must have been to be moved.

Amp
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Old 10-05-2012, 11:53 AM   #2
indoorheli
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Yes unfortunate to need a new thread here

As you know here is my brushless I did earlier this week following Dylans lead closely, only to change a few minor things so it worked with what I had available

Durning the conversions I found I did not have to have the hub changed out for a bearing tube nor did i need to make a new longer shaft and was able to make due with what I had. Though I look forward to Dylans motor choices when he gets them

To make the pinion reach the proper area below the motor it needed an additional 1mm in length which i was able to get from pounding the motor shaft downward from the bell a bit.
Instead of using a bearing tube from another motor I left the hub the same and made an adapter out of clear tubing that I was able to get cut straight on both sides using two washers as guides. I used this mount for a little bit and just modified it last night when down sizing to a 7T and am now using 1 brass and 1 plastic 5/16" (8mm) washers which adds need stiffness to the base.

I shaved the motor mount on the frame perfectly flat to accept the new motor and glued it into place.
I Bought a brushless heli flash stick and made an adapter for my esc though i have not as of yet tried it and instead went and flashed my esc with the micro solder points on the esc itself as suggested by Daryoon and is how it is written up in the BLHeli guide.
I soldered everything straight to the esc and piped the power to the esc before the main board. I tapped the signal into the back upper right of the main board. I then flashed my esc when BLHeli code V6.1 as V7.0 wouldnt flash. V6.1 can be found HERE

I then mounted the servos using msrx blade grip screws, pitch link ends and the dampers from the feather in shaft. I was going to change out the dampers for washers but I really like the dampers and how snug and secure it makes the servos.
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:10 PM   #3
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What KV motor are we thinking is a better fit for the nCPX? Seems like the HP03 comes in a couple of flavors now...and then there's the HP02 experiments Dylan is doing. I like lightness to the max.

Oh, can someone tell me how much space we need to move the servos by? I don't know if I missed that info before.

Indoor: is the height of two stack link rings about the amount we need to move the servo to clear the brushless outrunner motor?

Thanks guys.
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:53 PM   #4
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I can measure tonight the minimum distance needed from frame to servo board to clear the bell on the hp03s. On the hard ring and the damper I use the starting thickness of the two is not the same as the final tightened result. The purpose of using the dampers was that it will compress as much as I needed to attain a tight yet as close of proximity as I could without touching the servo to the motor. I was going to change it out for brass once i decided on the distance and got more washers but the damper makes it quite solid and vibe free...accidental positive outcome of using parts that i had
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Old 10-05-2012, 01:23 PM   #5
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I used the orings to shim servos on my mcpx and I liked them too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
I can measure tonight the minimum distance needed from frame to servo board to clear the bell on the hp03s. On the hard ring and the damper I use the starting thickness of the two is not the same as the final tightened result. The purpose of using the dampers was that it will compress as much as I needed to attain a tight yet as close of proximity as I could without touching the servo to the motor. I was going to change it out for brass once i decided on the distance and got more washers but the damper makes it quite solid and vibe free...accidental positive outcome of using parts that i had
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Old 10-05-2012, 01:25 PM   #6
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I see the cable you made up for flashing the esc. What do you have to do to flash the esc using that method? I have the same pieces you have and was about to solder to the esc but I would rather not if I don't have to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
Yes unfortunate to need a new thread here

As you know here is my brushless I did earlier this week following Dylans lead closely, only to change a few minor things so it worked with what I had available

Durning the conversions I found I did not have to have the hub changed out for a bearing tube nor did i need to make a new longer shaft and was able to make due with what I had. Though I look forward to Dylans motor choices when he gets them

To make the pinion reach the proper area below the motor it needed an additional 1mm in length which i was able to get from pounding the motor shaft downward from the bell a bit.
Instead of using a bearing tube from another motor I left the hub the same and made an adapter out of clear tubing that I was able to get cut straight on both sides using two washers as guides. I used this mount for a little bit and just modified it last night when down sizing to a 7T and am now using 1 brass and 1 plastic 5/16" (8mm) washers which adds need stiffness to the base.

I shaved the motor mount on the frame perfectly flat to accept the new motor and glued it into place.
I Bought a brushless heli flash stick and made an adapter for my esc though i have not as of yet tried it and instead went and flashed my esc with the micro solder points on the esc itself as suggested by Daryoon and is how it is written up in the BLHeli guide.
I soldered everything straight to the esc and piped the power to the esc before the main board. I tapped the signal into the back upper right of the main board. I then flashed my esc when BLHeli code V6.1 as V7.0 wouldnt flash. V6.1 can be found HERE

I then mounted the servos using msrx blade grip screws, pitch link ends and the dampers from the feather in shaft. I was going to change out the dampers for washers but I really like the dampers and how snug and secure it makes the servos.
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Old 10-05-2012, 01:40 PM   #7
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Old 10-05-2012, 02:02 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpod View Post
I see the cable you made up for flashing the esc. What do you have to do to flash the esc using that method? I have the same pieces you have and was about to solder to the esc but I would rather not if I don't have to.
I havent used that cable yet since I was told in another thread it probably wouldnt work and I didnt want to have any possiblity of damage to my one and only xp3A. So i just did a quick tap to the esc as per BLheli thread. I will test this cable next week though when i order another esc for my other nano, or maybe this weekend on a xp12A
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Old 10-05-2012, 02:33 PM   #9
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Cool, let us know if it works. I would rather flash mine this way if possible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
I havent used that cable yet since I was told in another thread it probably wouldnt work and I didnt want to have any possiblity of damage to my one and only xp3A. So i just did a quick tap to the esc as per BLheli thread. I will test this cable next week though when i order another esc for my other nano, or maybe this weekend on a xp12A
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Old 10-06-2012, 02:41 AM   #10
indoorheli
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post
Indoor: is the height of two stack link rings about the amount we need to move the servo to clear the brushless outrunner motor?
I end up using about a 2.5mm gap from board to frame
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:58 PM   #11
Ampdraw
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Anyone following the other thread it has been moved.

Definately worthwhile following it. Sick vid posted on page 22
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread....455791&page=22

Indoor...sending you a pm


Here's another vid of Darren Reed flying a Bl Nano as modded in the thread above.


Amp

Last edited by Ampdraw; 10-08-2012 at 10:01 PM..
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:07 PM   #12
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Thanks Amp for the link
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:59 PM   #13
Hellimod
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Hi
I need help. I soldered the signal wire to the 3in1 location as shown. Is this going to be a positive or negative signal. Also do I have to reverse any throttle setting cause it seem like my voltage starts out high and then dropped as I increased the throttle. I measured the voltage from one line at the signal wire and the other at the battery power. Thanks in advance for the help.
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Old 10-09-2012, 01:40 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellimod View Post
Hi
I need help. I soldered the signal wire to the 3in1 location as shown. Is this going to be a positive or negative signal. Also do I have to reverse any throttle setting cause it seem like my voltage starts out high and then dropped as I increased the throttle. I measured the voltage from one line at the signal wire and the other at the battery power. Thanks in advance for the help.
Signal is positive pwm, measure from battery negative to signal and it will look normal.
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Old 10-09-2012, 05:14 AM   #15
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Finally after working all night, my brushless nano was born. I used a spare c05 that I had laying around, a walkera esc, and multiple other parts I had laying around. With the signal wire in the same spot as above my throttle was reversed. I found another place on the 3in1 to solder my signal wire too and everything worked correctly. YAY!!!! since I stayed up all night working on this it is still dark out (6:00am) and I cannot test the heli in real flight. When gluing on the motor I made my gear mesh a little too big for the 7t pinion that came on the heli but perfect for an 8t pinion from an mcpx stock motor. Hopefully this will be ok. I will post how it flies tomorrow after I get a few hours of sleep.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:07 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dylwad View Post
Signal is positive pwm, measure from battery negative to signal and it will look normal.
Hi Dylan,
I don't know if I'm missing out on something here. I've soldered the signal wire as shown in your picture above and started my heli but didn't get any motor response. I then changed the esc to accept (-) negative input signal and the motor work but the problem is it works backward. When I throttled up on the transmitter, the motor would stop and when throttled down, the motor would spin. Sorry if this might be a stupid question but I'm pretty new at this hobby. Anyway, I've just thought of something: would changing the throttle curve help fix this problem? Thanks for your help in advance.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:55 AM   #17
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Hey, is there anyone willing to build me one of these. No soldering skills to speak of
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Old 10-09-2012, 04:00 PM   #18
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Hi All...

Well flew my Nano outside for the first time today & I guess today was also my first ever real outdoor heli session & I had such a blast, flew about 3 packs though my MCPX & about 20 packs with the Nano.

AND I LOVE THE NANO.. Wow, hours of fun today and by the end flew the last 3 or 4 packs totally inverted. I've learnt so more today outside & the last few days inside with the Nano than I have the previous 3 weeks with the Mcpx & the Sim.

Well I got home this evening & while getting everything charged up ready for tomorrow I was looking over a few spares I had from my mcpx brushless build & remembering something I read here the other day about a hybrid MCPX/NANO build & I dangerously had an idea! although being a bit new to this heli game (about a month) I just love to mod and I knew the urge was too stong, the rest was a bit of a blur but now two hours later I now have my Nano/Mcpx brushless hybrid.

This whole build revolves around a modified main shaft with a larger carbon tube placed over the bottom of the nano main shaft (read it on here somewhere, cannot remember the thread or person, sorry ) so that the top (blade/blade grips swashplate/servos/nano main board) can be Nano parts & the bottom ( frame/skids/motor) can be mcpx parts.

1. Motor: AEO M5 (4.6g) & Airbase Brushless Converter with 10A Built ESC for mCPx AIRMRXV2-10A (2-3) grams.
2. Mcpx frame (strenghted) with the mount from nano frame cut off & glued on.

Pics below will hopefully run though the build process, but simply place the carbon tube over the bottom of the nano main shaft, then build half as a Nano the rest as a Mcpx, plus the frame will take any type of motor and the servos mount perfect.

Only had chance to fly it around inside but it flys very well [better than mcpx inside, but not as quick as the nano] def need to shed a few grams as I'm sure that will improve it loads but so far flys very well (but this is from a complete novice). Will update when I get a chance to put it though it's paces tomorrow.

"Have fun!"

BTW: I think I need a better work bench with this hobby.
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Old 10-09-2012, 05:19 PM   #19
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What does it weight after your BL conversion?
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:55 AM   #20
Strangedaze
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A few extra mods I did this morning..

1. Cut top of AR guide down a little.
2. Put a bit of shrink wrap over AR pin to remove a bit of slack.
3. Made a (quick) smaller custom canopy by modifying/cutting down an mcpx one.

It weighs in around 30g without batteries. I'm guessing I can remove about 3-4 grams at the max. Canopy weighs 3g so can loose a bit there & I should be able to loose 1 gram when I direct solder everything..

Flew great around the house this morning but the headspeed seems crazy fast & will be taking it outside for a blast in the next few hours to see what it's really like.

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