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| 800 Class Helicopters 800 Class Helicopters |
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#21 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NJ
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Great points Don. Just my lay persons opinion, I don't thinktheOWB is beefy enough for the shaft size swinging 800mm blades. Isn't the logo 800 's OWB more robust than this? I think this OWB was just enough on the 700. I think the 800 is going to be a challenge. Hopefully KDE will come upwithsomething.......keep me posted as its winter here and your weather is better right now for testing : )
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#22 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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I have about a dozen flights with the KDE OWB mount and the new black CNC main gear and all is good so far. I did notice the mesh tighten up after the new main gear was installed. The stock gear was slowly wearing as I had white dust after about every flight.
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T-Rex 800e DFC Trekker w/VBar, Blades MCX2, 120SR, Radian Pro, DX8's. |
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#23 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NJ
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I have the new gear as well...........My other concern is your dampner problems. is there a trueblood or equivilent to upgrade to????? I hope the idea of stretching a 700 to an 800 was the right idea here as the increased blade mass is not playing well with 700 sized components........
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#24 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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I replaced the all of the parts that fit on the spindle as well as the spindle. It seems to have become a little tighter after many flights. There could have been a bad run of any of these parts. I really don't know. Iv''e seen some of the TrueBlood dampers and they don't seem as rigid as the DFC dampers. All I know is they were so loose that they fell out of the main rotor housing on their own when I pulled the grips off. (both sets)
*
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T-Rex 800e DFC Trekker w/VBar, Blades MCX2, 120SR, Radian Pro, DX8's. |
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#25 | |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Germany
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Quote:
Rgds Peter |
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#26 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Perth, Australia
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my 700e did this ... im surprised they didn't update the part for the 800E ... i had to heat up my OWB and the steel case popped out there was virtually no green loctite on it.. i drilled 4 holes in the alloy and counter sunk the steel sleeve at each point.. green loctite the sleeve back in and green loctite the grub screws into the collar... never ever slipped again.. looks like i will need to do same on this ..grrr...
My 800MX motor just arrived so im def going to have to mod the OWB with 11KW on tap :-D cheers |
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#27 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Let us know how that 800MX performs, many of us here are curious.
The OWB slipping issues on the 800e were coming from the top of the case being pulled off. The six button heads that hold the top of the case together were being pulled out of their threads. And once this happened, they would no longer hold and once the case top pulled out just a tiny bit, the bearing would slip. If you ever see tiny drops of lube around the seam between the two case halves, an autorotation is in the making. The steel KDE case has fixed those issues. Steel bolts into steel threads was needed to keep it together under the loads the 800mm blades put on it. I have over 100 flights with the KDE OWB case and no slippage yet.
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T-Rex 800e DFC Trekker w/VBar, Blades MCX2, 120SR, Radian Pro, DX8's. |
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#28 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Perth, Australia
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Sounds like I will need to go the kde then....IM not putting the 800mx motor on it until I have a good owb IM using 5200 45 c batteries so that's plenty of juice for my sport and not so wild 3d just have to see how it goes.
Cheers Sent from my GT-I9210T using Tapatalk 2 |
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| 800e, one way bearing, owb, trekkker |
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