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Mikado Logo 700 Xxtreme Mikado Logo 700 Xxtreme Helicopters Discussion


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Old 12-26-2012, 11:25 PM   #61
kevinbj
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Is the blade holder arm links 4701 the same size as the one on the 800? They seem not to offer it separate on logo 700 but they do on 800
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Old 12-26-2012, 11:58 PM   #62
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4501 http://readyheli.com/MIK4501-Mikado-...0_p_39567.html fits perfectly on Logo 700. I just put one on last week. I can't tell the difference visually. However, it is out of stock right now.
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:04 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taoY View Post
4501 http://readyheli.com/MIK4501-Mikado-...0_p_39567.html fits perfectly on Logo 700. I just put one on last week. I can't tell the difference visually. However, it is out of stock right now.
That is what I was hoping.. I seen it last week in stock but didn't know.. I will give it a try.. It cost to much to buy the blade holder itself if all you need is the arm link.. Maybe Dave knows more if there the same
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:16 PM   #64
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The 700's main blade holder control arms are the same part as used on the 800's blade holders. They are interchangeable.

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Old 12-27-2012, 10:47 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dahld View Post
The 700's main blade holder control arms are the same part as used on the 800's blade holders. They are interchangeable.

(-: Dave
Thank you.. You saved me bout $40
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Old 12-27-2012, 11:04 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stolla View Post
I would advise first pulling on the Bearing holder to be sure it doesnt come off bearing, then small drop of ca all you need to keep bearing in place, if the cover comes off ca as well, epoxy is not the answer as its too thick and messy on the small tolerances, off course be careful with the ca. My covers came off so obviously i am not a fan of the system.

I have been using the method Stolla describes on TT bearings for a few years and on every ship I've built that had bearings on the TT. Includine my Trex700,600,550's. Works fine. Never ever had one come loose and it keeps them in place as required. Need for all kinds of tape and sealing edges and all that. Just keep it simple - that usually is the best answer for most build Q's.

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Old 12-28-2012, 02:32 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OICU812 View Post
Hot glue has no adhesive quality. I used some small dabs on edge of tray of 5min epoxy. I've also suggested that comment on hot glue be taken out of manual as is not close to being sufficient.
Not wanting to get into a big debate here but the application here of hot glue seems to perfectly make sense. the purpose of using hot glue here is simply to fill the gaps in the slot mounting method of the tray so it doesn't vibrate around. As well, I observe that a secondary goal would be to enable easy removal should the need arise. "Adhesive quality" is exactly what is not desired for this application and 5min epoxy will likely damage the frames if removal is needed. Each to his own but I wouldn't be so quick to not use what Mikado recommends. They know what they are doing and test things out thoroughly. I don't post much here but I monitor a lot and if there is one thing I do notice is that it's good not to over-engineer things.
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:12 PM   #68
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What bolts should the middle canopy mounts be secured with? The size is not mentioned in the manual.

Also, what purpose does the numerous drilled holes in the upper part of the frame serve?

I am thinking about adding a few spacers to make the frame even more though and rigid. The two beams around the tail servo area are quite vulnerable. I am thinking about drilling some holes and add a few spacers there too.

Please see attached picture.


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Old 12-28-2012, 07:26 PM   #69
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Q: "...what purpose does the numerous drilled holes in the upper part of the frame serve?"

Well, what we have always used them for is securing wires going from the ESC back to the V-Bar etc., using insulation of some king on the wires, and using the holes to zip-tie the wires to the frames.

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Old 12-28-2012, 07:41 PM   #70
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Ah, of course they are!

Did anyone encounter any issues when applying loctite to the frame screws? It seems like Mikado used immensely amounts of torque when they assembled the frame. So far I've stripped four screws. I had to grind a flat slot on the heads to unscrew them. Going to get some new bolts when parts availability is better.
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:08 PM   #71
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Yes, many of my bolts were put on with a NASCAR tire changing wrench as well. A good quality hex driver will let you get them out fine. They must be using a drill driver of some sort.

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Old 12-28-2012, 10:36 PM   #72
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My frame bolts were tight also. I suspect some even had thread lock on them and snugged up good.

I use the century alen drivers , very long lasting. As a bonus the ends of the handle have built in ball link end drives on them

All bolts on 700 and 800 builds came out without issues.

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Old 12-28-2012, 11:20 PM   #73
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I recently changed all of my screw drivers too PB Swiss Tools. However, I am missing the 2 mm hex driver, as they are out of stock everywhere.

Yes, I am pretty sure they used drill drivers as well.
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:30 PM   #74
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Should there be any room to move up and down on the main shaft for the shims between the main gear and the lower bearing block? I do have one shim left that I could use if necessary.


Thanks,

Edit: Never mind. The manual states to have some axial play to better adjust the gear mesh.
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Old 01-01-2013, 04:45 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathias View Post
Should there be any room to move up and down on the main shaft for the shims between the main gear and the lower bearing block? I do have one shim left that I could use if necessary.


Thanks,

Edit: Never mind. The manual states to have some axial play to better adjust the gear mesh.
i also had a spare shim 1mm installed that as i had quite a bit of play, then was a lot better probably about 0.3-0.5mm
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:41 PM   #76
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What you could do to eliminate the play, is to push the main shaft as much as you can upwards, then tighten the main shaft collar at the top of the frame. Doing it this way will cause even more play between the shims, making them not really serving a purpose.

Not sure what to to. Will look into this as well as some other things when I receive the rest of my ordered items to complete the build. Christmas in addition to delays are making the shipments go very slow. Will probably be another to-three weeks before maiden.

BTW - how is the single tail push rod guide working out? I've been thinking about adding one more.
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:26 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathias View Post
What you could do to eliminate the play, is to push the main shaft as much as you can upwards, then tighten the main shaft collar at the top of the frame. Doing it this way will cause even more play between the shims, making them not really serving a purpose.

Not sure what to to. Will look into this as well as some other things when I receive the rest of my ordered items to complete the build. Christmas in addition to delays are making the shipments go very slow. Will probably be another to-three weeks before maiden.

BTW - how is the single tail push rod guide working out? I've been thinking about adding one more.
I believe the main gear is meant to "float" a bit. There is a note in the manual about it.

No issue with the single tail rod guide so far...
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:09 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathias View Post
BTW - how is the single tail push rod guide working out? I've been thinking about adding one more.
Single push rod guide works fine. It bowed the push rod a little bit. This stiffen the push rod a bit and the added friction is not causing any interference with the tail operation. Adding more will increase the friction and may cause other issues.

You can try it and report back. Not sure whether Dave tried it or not.
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:12 PM   #79
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I have two guides on mine. I have ran two guides on my L600 for almost 4 years. I have two on my L700. ZERO issues. I just like two on there. Probably makes no difference.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:20 PM   #80
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Oops, spoke too soon.
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