First Nitro!

[crickr1]

Hey guys,
Getting ready to order my first nitro and th x4n is it! Been following some of the threads, seems to be what I'm looking for. With little daylight at end of day, when I get home don't have time to charge so nitro it is!
Going to get the os37, savox servos, MSH Brain, and Futaba s-bus.
Looking at the Gryphon auto booster remote, some recommend the Switch glo pro,
Input appreciated
Also considering Life packs instead of lipo, so I can leave charged and have a flight ready heli. Pro's, con's?
Is the stock Gaui pipe good or should I get other?
Any other input would be great!
BTW, I'm not doing any hard 3d yet, Just started w/loops/flips but I do like to push my ability and am looking to do more as my ability advances.
Thanks for input

[joallen001]

The gaui pipe should work great. That is what I have ordered. Also going to use the switch glo and life packs.

[tauscnc]

Originally Posted by crickr1

Hey guys,
Getting ready to order my first nitro and th x4n is it! Been following some of the threads, seems to be what I'm looking for. With little daylight at end of day, when I get home don't have time to charge so nitro it is!
Going to get the os37, savox servos, MSH Brain, and Futaba s-bus.
Looking at the Gryphon auto booster remote, some recommend the Switch glo pro,
Input appreciated
Also considering Life packs instead of lipo, so I can leave charged and have a flight ready heli. Pro's, con's?
Is the stock Gaui pipe good or should I get other?
Any other input would be great!
BTW, I'm not doing any hard 3d yet, Just started w/loops/flips but I do like to push my ability and am looking to do more as my ability advances.
Thanks for input

So excited for you!! I still love nitro and the NX4 is a good choice. I am using the Pushglo the little brother of the switch glow. It is neat to be able to heat the plug using the radio but since we don't have an autostart you are still going to have to go to the chopper and crank over the engine. You can save space, weight, and cost and get the Pushglo. Either is better than having to carry around a glow driver !

I use 2s lipo and keep it charged with a CC 10 amp BEC. Batteries are cheap enough to replace each year.

I can't imagine the Gaui pipe won't be nice.

Good stuff!

[Pinion]

This package has the gaui pipe, saddle tank, gaui gov and gaui on board push glow.... at a pretty decent price. dealers should have them soon....

http://www.empirerc.com/gaui-nx4-fue...ck-p-6749.html

[Pinion]

JC has been running the Gaui pipe since IRCHA and has been very happy with it.... He has had great success on both 15% and 30% nitro....

[crickr1]

Just ordered! Exp rc 13.5% off coupon! Oh Yeah Baby!!! Can't wait,,,I'll be following threads till then.

[crickr1]

What size life batts everyone using? about how many flights per charge?
Thanks

[Pinion]

mine is a 1350mah hyperion. I get about six flights per charge.

[wbefield]

I just finished my first nitro build and I love it. You will too!!
The MSH Brain is awesome on a nitro too.

[Chris Lalonde]

How are you guys running these small packs. I am using a 2250mah lipo and my nix is still tail heavy

[caralmar]

Originally Posted by Chris Lalonde

How are you guys running these small packs. I am using a 2250mah lipo and my nix is still tail heavy

Yes, it is a fat pig of a tail. Nothing you can do about it. Just let the FBL controller level it out for you. I put in a Scorpion backup guard up front and my battery is on the front piece and it is still very tail heavy. Oh well...flies great so I'm not worried about it.

[crickr1]

I read about them being tail heavy so I picked up a 2000 life, sounds like could have been bigger. Just starting the build so we'll see!

[joallen001]

Will a 2000mah fit under the canopy.

[crickr1]

Originally Posted by joallen001

Will a 2000mah fit under the canopy.

I just built frame so far, strapped batt to lower front batt tray and put canopy on. just fits.
Dimensions of my batt are
90mm x 42mm x 15mm ( this works)
going to look for a more narrow, but could be taller, pack w more mah,
Something the size of a 2200 lipo might be good fit , havent tried yet.

This looks like a better fit
http://www.readyheli.com/HP-FR21002S...k_p_33833.html
The extra length is ok

[crickr1]

Servo question??
Using Savox 1250mg, they came supplied with rubber grommets, should I use grommets or mount rigid?
Thanks

[caralmar]

Originally Posted by crickr1

Servo question??
Using Savox 1250mg, they came supplied with rubber grommets, should I use grommets or mount rigid?
Thanks

Use the grommets. It'll make your life easier, since the kit supplied longer servo screws. The grommets will offset that thickness, plus they're good for vibration dampening anyway.

[crickr1]

Thank you Caralamar
Just got my servos and braided the lines, getting them ready for install.
Planning maiden after Christmas
already have cnc x5 boom support mount and the Lynx 600 fan is on way.

[caralmar]

Originally Posted by crickr1

Thank you Caralamar
Just got my servos and braided the lines, getting them ready for install.
Planning maiden after Christmas
already have cnc x5 boom support mount and the Lynx 600 fan is on way.

Sweet! Good luck with the build bud! While you have a pristine canopy, use some fiberglass cloth and epoxy or whatever other method you prefer and re-enforce the grommet holes...its a tight fit and that area of the canopy is weak.

Also, I found that the QuickUK needle adjusting levers are great. They allow me to visually see exactly where the needle is and I can quickly set it a click or two and see the new position.

DO THROW AWAY the stock fuel lines. They are not good, especially the clunk one. I think even Bobby mentioned this in his video. I built mine before there was a video, and used the stock clunk line and it started bubbling up on me after just a few flights.

Check your swashplate bearing retaining screws...most apparently have no loctite on them.

Oh, when you mount your engine, leave all bolts loose and "wiggle" the engine a bit until you can freely turn the starter shaft clockwise by hand. Once you get it there, slowly start tightening your bolts in an alternate pattern and re-check the starter shaft. Took me a while to get it loose but it will get there!

On the engine pipe, you can get an aftermarket RJX deflector cheap. They are great because they have a plug so you don't get dirty fuel all over your car.

Let me see..what else... oh, the tail boom... you can use a piece of saran wrap plastic or thin thermal receipt paper and stick it between the front gears and push the boom in tight against that paper. Level your vertical fin and then slowly tighten just one of the bolts. Remove the paper and check the mesh. You should be able to "wiggle" the tail gears a little and feel it "clicking" in the front just a hair. Once satisfied, tighten the other clamp and finally put in the top bolt to pin the boom.

If I think of anything else, I'll let you know. The most PITA parts of the build are the rubber grommets on the tank fences and the rubber grommet that goes into the tank. Use some rubber-safe grease and work it in. I replaced the plastic fuel nipple with a metal one... I have broken a few of the plastic ones and I prefer the metal ones.

USE A HEADER TANK

Ok, that's it...good night buddy!

[crickr1]

[crickr1]

Alright, have my motor now and finishing the build.
Few more questions;
I'm running a header tank, also picked up a "bubbleless" clunk.
should I use this in the main tank and the metal klunk (came with quick uk header) in the header?
Also, I have Lynx cnc fan, Do I ca glue or epoxy magnets to it?
On my th servo,,I have the linkage as small as I can make it(about 84mm) and the manual says 81mm. The servo arm and th arm are not perfectly aligned, off by a couple degrees.
Will this be ok or should I shorten the linkage rod?

Thanks guys can't wait!