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| Skookum Robotics Skookum Robotics SK-360 SK-540 & SK-720 Digital Flybar |
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#41 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Australia, Melbourne, ringwood east
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What plugs are the go ? Was looking at supra connectors. Pretty pricey though.
Sent from Android via Trap a talk 2 |
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#42 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: South Africa
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#43 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Wiltshire England
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Yeah. Nothing wrong with EC5's. it's the solder that's the problem! Why doesnt real aerospace use soldered joints ?
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X2 SK720 MINIJAZZ 20 / WARP 360 SK540 KOBY55 / E5 SK540 YGE120LV / LOGO 550SX SK540 HELIJIVE 120 / 7HV SK540 YGE160k / 7HV SK720 YGE 120k / TDR SK540 POWERJIVE 120 / Futaba18mz / Skookum support rep |
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#44 | |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Australia
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Quote:
You can get them here http://www.powerwerx.com/ they also have all the specs. Crimped connections are superior to solder in any circumstances where the connection may be subject to vibration.
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-DX8 -MSH MiniProtos Stretched, SK720, DS95/DS95i, Hyp 4S 25C 2500mAh -MSH Protos Stretched, Brain, Hyp DS16/BLS251, 6S 3000mAh |
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#45 | |
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Registered Users
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Quote:
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Megavolt 800, Trex 800e, Goblin 770, Fusion 50, Blade Mcpx Spektrum DX18 / AMA# 959345 / IRCHA #3954 Team Lynx Team HeliDirect |
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#46 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Vancouver, BC
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Hi guys, I'm on my way to China for 3DX China and will be back next week. I will post part 2 of the advance setup when i get back. Sorry for the delay.
By the way, do join our Skookum Robotics Facebook page and group. We often post updates, events, pictures, and videos on our page. |
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#47 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Australia, Melbourne, ringwood east
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Good luck mate! If it was a week sooner I'd have gone to china to watch! But it just didn't quite coincide with our business there dam it
Sent from Android via Trap a talk 2 |
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#48 | |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: United Kingdom
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Quote:
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georgi UK |
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#49 | |
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Quote:
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Dany Synergy E5 in the works Furion 6 Flybarless, Skookum 720 To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Beam E4(v1) FBL, Skookum 540 |
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#50 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: United Kingdom
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=] not me, there is nothing like the real thing!
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georgi UK |
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#51 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Australia, Melbourne, ringwood east
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Whats Gaui a fake of?
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#52 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Mountlake Terrace, Wa
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They are their own brand. They copy no one.
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Heli's I've had:MCX2, MSR, HB FP V2, Blade SR, 120SR, Trex 250, Trex 450 sport, MCPX, Heli's I have: Trex 450 pro FBL BeastX (Clone Mostly Align), Gaui X5(SK540), X7(Vbar) |
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#53 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Australia, Melbourne, ringwood east
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#54 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Wiltshire England
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That's just GM's way
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X2 SK720 MINIJAZZ 20 / WARP 360 SK540 KOBY55 / E5 SK540 YGE120LV / LOGO 550SX SK540 HELIJIVE 120 / 7HV SK540 YGE160k / 7HV SK720 YGE 120k / TDR SK540 POWERJIVE 120 / Futaba18mz / Skookum support rep |
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#55 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Pearland, Tx
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Thanks for hard work guys hehe
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#56 |
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Registered Users
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Set ups! Perfecto!!!! Try aking the fun folks on the 3GX threads for a pro's set up and see what what happens
This is why I freakin' love my SK540!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Blade MSR Copterx/Tarot 450 Pro Belt Logo 10/400, Logo 500SE with Skookum 540...eh! Compass 7HV mit einem Vbar Silverline...schnell! |
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#57 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Portland, OR
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Awesome post by Alvin! Looking forward to part 2!
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Compass 6HV - FBL SK-720 | JR 8917HV | Outrage BL9188 HV | HW 70A ESC | WR Super-BEC | KBDD | DX8 |
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#58 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Denmark, Copenhagen
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He likes to fly the real original hoover..
http://www.tmco.com.vn/index.php?act...id=179&lang=en |
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#59 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Vancouver, BC
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Hi everyone, sorry for the delay. Below is the Advance Setup I promised...
Advance Setup I will concentrate on how I set up my Cyclic as I get asked that a lot. Some of the values may not work for the type of flying you do, but it will give you an idea on how I tune it. For all helis, big or small, I usually start with the following values for the first flight, Control Rates 280, 280 Bell Gain 55, 55 Hiller Gain 50, 50 Damping Gain 18, 16 Tail Drag Comp -6, 0 Overall cyclic gain 50% (in transmitter or using Lock Cyclic Gain) Self-Tune Bell Gain - Off Hiller Decay 165% Cyclic Accel 30% Control Rates - I will get the heli in the air and start doing some full flips and rolls. I will then increase or decrease the control rates to get the final rate I like. - What you are doing here is finding the maximum roll and flip rate you want. That’s basically what Control Rate is. Bell Gain - I hardly use the self-tune bell gain as I find the auto tune values are a bit too high for my liking. But I'm not saying Self-Tune Bell Gain does not work, it works pretty well for many pilots, but for my flying style, I prefer a lower bell gain. - I think the manual says to give sharp jabs on the cyclic sticks and see if the heli rebounds. That method kinda works in a way but I feel it is not the best indicator for tuning the bell gain. - There’s no “magic number” for Bell Gain, I’ve seen people referencing setting the Control Rates to achieve around 85% of self-tune Bell Gain. That may work for some beginners and sport flyers, but for 3D that method does not work well. - I usually start with 55, 55 as I feel it gives a neutral feel for most helis. I will then proceed to fly my routine and see how the heli "reacts" to my cyclic sticks. What I'm looking for is a balance “reaction” feel, not too fast, not too slow. Then I will check if the there is any rebound during hard stops and tic-tocs, mostly with elevator. If there is some rebound, I will decrease bell gain. - When I adjust Bell Gain, I usually use the same value for both elevator and aileron, just to make things simple. - I find my Bell Gain usually end up around 50-65%. - A lower bell gain will slow down the "reaction feel" of the heli to your cyclic stick, but it will make the heli fly better in hard maneuver (less bobbing/overshoot) To counteract the "slow" feel, you can increase the Cyclic Accel to speed up the cyclic. Hiller Gain - So Hiller Gain is the “locked-in” power of your heli. The higher it is, the more locked-in the heli feels in the air. However too high Hiller Gain will cause the heli to shake /wobble in hover and/or during 3D. - I always leave the default value of 50, 50 and only adjust the overall Hiller Gain with my radio through my GEAR channel, or you can use the Lock Cyclic Gain function. - For most sports flying, Hiller Gain is pretty easy to tune, just increase the Hiller Gain and if you see the heli wobble or bobble during your flight, then just back it down a bit. - To fine tune it for 3D, I usually do fast continuous elevator and aileron tic-tocs, or pirouetting tic-toc, if the heli wobbles during the maneuver, decrease Hiller Gain until you get a smooth transition throughout the maneuver. I find fast continuous maneuver is the easiest way to fine tune Hiller Gain for 3D. - I usually end up about 50-60% Hiller Gain on my big helis (600-700) and about 30-50% on small helis (250-500) Damping Gain - I always start with the default value of 18, 16 for Damping Gain. - The only time I tune the Damping Gain is when I get slight bobbing/rebound during elevator hard stops that I could not get rid of with Bell Gain and Hiller Gain. - So if you experience some slight elevator rebound, reduce elevator Damping Gain. Aileron hardly needs adjusting. - Do note that damping gain is propositional to the hiller gain i.e. if you increase hiller, damping increases as well. Tail Drag Comp - As explained in the basic tuning, Tail Drag Comp helps keep the heli level throughout the pitch range. - Tuning is pretty easy, just do a full pitch climb out and full pitch descend, and adjust tail drag comp so the entire heli remains level throughout. Hiller Decay - The explanation in the basic tuning basically covers how I tune the Hiller Decay. - To recap, the lower the hiller decay, the more "heading hold" the swashplate has and helps keep the heli stable in high winds. - However low hiller decay can cause some oscillation during 3D. - I like higher hiller decay because it makes the heli feel smoother in maneuver and transitions. For 600-700 size helis, I prefer around 140-165%. For smaller helis, I like using 165-200%. Cyclic Accel - As mentioned above in the Bell Gain tuning, low Bell Gain slows down the “reaction feel” of your heli to your cyclic sticks. So to counteract the slow feel, I increase the Cyclic Accel to help speed up the cyclic. - I’m using 35-45% in my helis. I think that’s about it for Advance Tuning. I will work with Skookum to rewrite the flight tuning part of the manual as the current guide now is kind of outdated. Feel free the share this around and I will try to help answer any questions you may have. Thanks! Don't forget to join our Skookum Facebook page, https://www.facebook.com/groups/211297015669437/ https://www.facebook.com/pages/Skook...63657117006535 I often check Facebook and will be faster for me to answer any questions Last edited by alvinchai; 12-22-2012 at 04:22 AM.. Reason: update for Cyclic Accel |
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#60 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: NW burbs IL
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Very useful. I will print this out and keep it in my flight box. Thanks for sharing.
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