Main gear warped.

[Luisito]

I first greased the O-rings then I sprayed the inside of the boom with WD-40 and the torque tube slid right in with little effort. I was worried about the effects of WD-40 on the O-Rings until I saw this post:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345397

Luis

[rcmarty]

Well i didn't luck out on the main gear

Having an issue with the shimming of the gear so the main gear doesn't rub on the tail drive gear.

I have the .5mm shim above the tail drive , and 2 x 1mm (should be 1x.5 + 1x1) in between and still i'm getting rubbing on about 1/8th of the maingear.

Gear out 3-4 mm overall.

So for the people running the gears as is , how are you shimming ?


Martin

[MrMel]

Guys,

Mikado found the source of the issue. its NOT the main gear that is the fault here, believe it or not.
It's the one-way that has too big diameter, you should to be able to push it all the way in with hand force, as you might see you cannot, and when you tighten the gear with bolts, you warp the gear.

New one-ways are en route as of today or monday to the resellers, Mikado will post more info on vstabi.info.

You can fix it by grinding down the edge of the one way but make sure to cover the bearing so it does not get filled with metal debris.
Drop a PM if you want more info how to do it, exception to my sig in that case.

[Stolla]

Thanks for heads up Fredrik, now are they gonna supply us with the new one or is this going to turn in a goblinisque afair where things just doesnt seem to go right, hope not.
As for t/ tube bearings, i glued mine sure but one should not have to glue carbon plates and things like this, they could have just encapsulated them in a rubber grommet or if they wanted hi end do what henseleit is doing with the awesome chuck type fasteners, i would gladly pay extra for these, can only be a buck or three tbh. As for the gear, these things can happen, i suppose it depends how mik deals with it that matters. But they should get rid of the t/tube bearing holders and fix the loose carbon plates for sure, that will get rid of the bitter taste in my mouth.

[FLYGUY 11]

OK, once the one way has been installed causing the main gear to warp. Will the main gear retain its form once the one way is removed?
I have put my gear on a glass surface and it appears to be warped
Could my gear have retained this warped form from installing the "out of spec" one way??

J

[Stolla]

No it shouldnt have but if it did heating in water should get it back to way it came out of the mold. Worth a try, nothing to loose

[rcmarty]

I don't recall my 800 oneway being so tough to press in. I had to pull in with screws so there's something to that statement.

I marked the high point that is hitting the tail drive

Took it all apart and turned the oneway 180 degrees , put it back togeather and it was high in the same location.

I have a friend with a lathe , will see if i can get it machined down and post the results.

Thanks mrmel for the update

Martin

[Tenguru]

Originally Posted by EO19

I just put some epoxy o the rc plate. No big deal.

Not sure what you're referring to in regards to the torque tube bearings???

So is this what the majority of the folks are doing? Gluing/epoxying carbon plates? Won't that cause a big problem if you crack frame pieces and need to replace selected frame parts? What are the pro's doing in their builds?

[motogman]

I used black silicone on the V-bar plate easy enough to peel off.

As far as gear, Like Mr Mel pointed out, I lightly sanded the outer rim of the one way bearing holder, didn't take much sanding at all. On the second gear I bought, it drops right in now, no force at. On the original kit gear, the inner dia hole of gear is also tight fit, to the point I have to put the shaft in and rotate the whole assembly to get it on the gear.

What I found was the gear that fits easy is a lot straighter now not perfect but just a slight hair out and I mean very slight bit out. The tight gear is still way off, so yeah I guess that is what's causing the bowing.

[Luisito]

I only had to do the receiver tray since it was slightly loose but I agree with you, don't use epoxy or CA. I used E6000. Works great in holding things together but you can easily peel it off when needed. This is what I use to also hold the connectors in the VBar.

No other build issues. Gear is straight and she flies awesome. Just wished they had the same gyro holder as their carbon fiber frame:
http://www.readyheli.com/MIK4401-Log...e_p_37833.html

It mounts to the lower bottom of the frame and it stiffens up the frame as well.

Edit: it's E6000 not EC6000
http://www.walmart.com/ip/E6000-2300...em+Description

Luis

[FLYGUY 11]

Well, I removed some material from the outside of the one way holder. The one way now fits very nice. The gear still has a bit of a bow but is much better now. It is out by about 1/2 mm now which I think will be ok. I might try boiling it to see if I can get it a little better.
Big big props out to MrMel!!
Thank you sir and have a Merry Christmas!

J

[rcmarty]

+1

Mr Mel is right on the money again ( like we doubted at all )

Thank you sir , im running true (+-.5mm) with stock 1 + .5 shim spacing as specd in book.

I held the hub in my fingers loosly and used a vertical belt sander. (small hobby one) Belt almost shot though.

Playing with the angle against the moving belt i was able to get the hub spinning and sanding at the same time.
Tested the fit every so often putting hub in backwards. After a quick sanding on the inside of the gear to knock off the small bumps i can now turn the fully seated hub inside the maingear. Bolted up with ccross pattern and evenly torqued up she's true.

Martin

[dahld]

Q: "What are the pro's doing in their builds?"

A: With the number of helis we had to build in the short time we had to build them, what we did was just fly the models as originally built.

After having up to four 700's at a time flying, and still have two flying, we did notice over time that some of the interior frame plates didn't fit perfectly tight. The most often offender is the plate at the top, just behind the top bearing block.

I know it will sound like a sales pitch, and that we're just trying to defend Mikado, but the fact of the matter is, every machine you've seen Kyle fly in any of the videos ever posted of him with the Logo 700, just have the frames bolted together, and nothing ever done to "secure" any plates that have been found to fit less than tight.

It apparently doesn't effect the way the heli flies, and has shown no evidence over time that it causes any issues.

(-: Dave

[NTM]

A new hub and gear got me fixed up, zero wobble in the gear and now I can run the shimming specified in the manual.
The new hub pushed easily into the hub, the old one needs to be pushed pretty hard, so definitally the problem that MrMel explained.

[Tenguru]

Originally Posted by MrMel

Guys,

Mikado found the source of the issue. its NOT the main gear that is the fault here, believe it or not.
It's the one-way that has too big diameter, you should to be able to push it all the way in with hand force, as you might see you cannot, and when you tighten the gear with bolts, you warp the gear.

New one-ways are en route as of today or monday to the resellers, Mikado will post more info on vstabi.info.

You can fix it by grinding down the edge of the one way but make sure to cover the bearing so it does not get filled with metal debris.
Drop a PM if you want more info how to do it, exception to my sig in that case.

As of yet, I haven't heard or read anything regarding the issue from Mikado. Has any more information about a new OWB been released? My 700 is still in the box, primarily because I have just been too busy to build it. However, it would be nice to have any out-of-spec replacement part(s) on hand before I start the build.

[rcmarty]

My guess is that the new batch of oneways for the 700/800 kits are slightly oversized on the outer diameter.

I'd ask if the part is old stock (pre700) part, otherwise you might get the same situation agian.

But , if you have a sander of some sort and 10-15 mins ( i take a while with the ocd fitting ) you can save time and money on a replacement part.

My post above says how i did mine.

MY sanding belt is basicly shot with a little section that has some grit left on it.

If you have a good belt don't get to aggressive with it , the amount coming off is very small. Guessing 1 mm total in diameter ( half per side ) .

Martin

[rexxigpilot]

Using a belt sander may provide irregular results and out-of-round OWB assemby OD. It would be better to chuck it up in a drill press or even hand held drill to remove a bit of material from the OWB. Use the main shaft in the drill to turn the OWB (flip bearing in the direction where it is engaged and turns), then use fine sand paper or emory cloth to remove just a bit of metal. I've had to turn down some out-of-spec Align main shafts using this method before. Its easy to do.

[rcmarty]

true , i sanded mine at an angle to keep it turning , drill would dothe same.

In reality though the center section is the centering method (providing it isn't tight) and the bolt pattern in of german quality ( accurate )

I think the out race could be done poorly and still have 0 effect. On the other hand many of the people buying these kits have some building skills behind them and will be just fine.


Martin

[MrMel]

Originally Posted by Tenguru

As of yet, I haven't heard or read anything regarding the issue from Mikado. Has any more information about a new OWB been released? My 700 is still in the box, primarily because I have just been too busy to build it. However, it would be nice to have any out-of-spec replacement part(s) on hand before I start the build.

Mikado is more or less closed for christmas, the replacement hubs that are enroute to the US did not make it this week. I suggest you at least check it as its not all that are affected

[Stolla]

And check yours mine was perfect fit, so not always oversize. Still wobble but not too bad it seems