Compass-USA Sponsored Warp 360 Build Thread

[Ah Clem]

OUTSTANDING SCOTT!

GREAT THREAD!
(and yes, I am shouting!).

[integy2]

Did u get one already Ah Clem?

[keither1984]

Good build thread.

I have one question with your build, you said that you were going to put threadlock in the nut and the threaded portion into the aluminum grip link is that necesarry I did not see anything in the manual about and was wondering I think im gonna do mine that way too definitly don't want that coming off in flight

[dunkonu23]

Thanks, guys. I wish I could do more tonight, but it's not happening. I hope the antibiotics I got yesterday kick in soon.

Richard... you da man! Shout away! I'm honored, sincerely.

Scott

[dunkonu23]

Originally Posted by keither1984

Good build thread.

I have one question with your build, you said that you were going to put threadlock in the nut and the threaded portion into the aluminum grip link is that necesarry I did not see anything in the manual about and was wondering I think im gonna do mine that way too definitly don't want that coming off in flight

Yes. I did put thread locker in on the bolt then threaded the nut up to the thread locker, and also in the aluminum portion of the swash driver for the bolt. Without a locking mechanism it seemed too much of a risk for me. The manual said nothing except the standard "metal to metal" disclaimer, so it's metal to metal and it gets thread locker applied.

One thing thread locker might prohibit is the quasi turnbuckle action of this kind of link; but I thought it was worth it.

Scott

[1BADAIR]

nice build Scott

[dunkonu23]

Originally Posted by 1BADAIR

nice build Scott

Larry! Thanks! Long time, bro! I haven't seen you since July. What have you been up to?

Scott

[1BADAIR]

not much at all

[dunkonu23]

Don't sound too enthusiastic, Larry!

Scott

[eagleridge]

Great build thread as usual Scott!!

[Jeff_Barrett]

Good job, Scott.

I took lots of photos of my build before forgetting in the excitement of my build. LOL!

[dunkonu23]

Thanks, Jeff! I know what you mean about the excitement. I have to reign myself in during the build.

Scott

[dunkonu23]

Still not feeling that well, but a promise is a promise... Here we go with the basic tail and boom assembly!



Bag 7,8,9... well, the numbers skip around a little, but they relate to the steps in the manual--there are cases where parts in a prior assembly are used in the current assembly--so the number skips. Don't worry! You're likely not missing a bag of parts! You gotta love that the packaging factories weigh each bag!



Contents of bag 7,8,9. Note that you have eight screws, four smaller and four larger. Also, note the spring pin slightly under the belt bag.



Parts for assembling the tail output shaft. Note that the spring pin is missing from this step. It's missing because I was trying to figure out how to get the pin in without a small vice.



The first step in the process is to line up the hole in the main shaft with the hole in the pulley. The cleaner you do this step, the easier the spring pin can be inserted. I ended up using a "C" clamp to press in the spring pin. My suggestions? Two, really. Buy a small bench vice. Second, Compass might want to consider assembling this part.



After I got the spring pin in the pulley and output shaft, I installed the other half of the pulley. I waited to do it at this point because the output shaft can be used as a guild. I slid the box end side of a wrench over the output shaft then lightly tapped on the wrench so the pulley halves would merge.



Here's the proof: The assembled tail output shaft.



Here are the parts to assemble one side of the tail block. When you're doing this, pay close attention to the orientation of the bearing in the carbon fiber end plate--the flange must face the pulley on the tail output shaft.



Install the screws carefully. Make sure you get even tension on them! I tightened them until they were snug then went 1/4 turn past snug.



Slide the tail output shaft into the flange bearing on the end plate.



Next, install the other plate.



Even tightening here, too. The reason is this: Carbon fiber, even a small piece like this may flex when the screws are not evenly tightened. Flexing may cause the bearings to wear prematurely or even cause vibrations that are a pain in the butt to track down!



To install the belt, I first stretched it out, then applied tape to one end as shown above.



Next, I simply just pushed the belt through the boom! Simple. If you don't tape or somehow squeeze the belt like this, you may spend a frustrating time getting the belt through the boom.



Remove the tape from the belt then just slide the tail case assembly inside the belt. Really a good design here. It's simple. I can see belt replacements not taking too long at the field!



Next we attach the tail case assembly to the boom. First, you thread the screws through the fin and the plastic support.



Screws are through. Be a little more careful with the blue thread locker than I was. In the manual it says to put thread locker on the curved portion of the machined tail case. I don't know why, but I did it anyway.



Tighten the screws evenly here, too. The screws go through the boom and into the tail case assembly.



As we did with the tail, thread the screws through the plastic tail control arm support. Don't forget thread locker!



Tighten the screws evenly here, as well. The manual doesn't state orientation of this piece, but if you look very closely at the drawing, it shows the curved part facing to the top.



Here is the partial boom/tail assembly, completed. Next up, we'll do more with the tail.

Scott

[Luigi_tuga]

Thanks a lot for the effort!
Nice tips on general building also, VERY pedagogical thread!

[dunkonu23]

In this post we'll do the first part of the tail assembly. I'm breaking this up into two parts because the tail pitch slider assembly has two links and pins that need to be properly fit so it's going to take more time to make sure they're properly installed.

So, here we go with part 1!



Bag 10.



Bag 10 contains the tail pitch control lever parts.



The first thing I did was resize the link. Note in the picture, the link is not yet on the ball link sizing too. I used a standard JR ball link sizer.



Now, this picture may be a bit misleading, but it does show the installation order of the ball. The easiest thing to do is to temporarily install the ball on the lever-do not use the top washer-- then press the link on to the ball. Next, remove the screw, slide washer onto the screw. Then slide on the ball, apply thread locker to the threaded hole on the lever then install the ball/link assembly.



When you're done, it looks like this. Keep the small washer and bolt for later.



Bag 11. Ha! No weight!!!



Bag 11 contains the tail grips and two balls with screws.



Since this is a high stress part of the helicopter, I first threaded the hole in the link, then removed the screw.



I then filled the threaded hole with CA that I first applied to a toothpick.



Finally, I reinstalled the ball. Don't over tighten! Remember, the link is plastic!



Balls are installed.. sounds bad doesn't it?



Bag 12/13 Contains a lot of parts for the tail assembly.



I did a double take on the blades. They have a design on them... both blades have the same design. I wonder what it means or if it is a logo of some kind?



Here is the assembly order of the grips and tail hub. This is pretty critical to get right. When you're done, the grips should turn freely on the hub.



The first thing to do is to install the bearings into the grips. Each grip has two radial bearings. I pressed them in with the shoulder of a Thorpe hex driver.



The bearings slid in with only a small amount of force.



Same deal with the outer radial bearing.



Just apply constant, steady pressure and the bearing will slide right in. Stop pressing when you feel the bearing has found the lip inside the grip.



Outer radial bearing installed.



I applied blue thread locker to a tooth pick then used the toothpick to apply the thread locker to the threads inside the shaft portion of the tail hub.



Slide the grip over the hub and tighten the screw until you feel some resistance. Do this with both tail grips.



For final tightening, insert a hex driver or screw driver through the center hole in the hub, then tighten each grip screw evenly. After that, check to make sure there is no binding on the grips by turning them. If you find binding or a notchy feel you may not have pressed the grip bearings in fully.



The completed tail hub.



The manual wants builders to install the tail blades at this point. This picture shows what goes where. I'm skipping this step because I think having the blades on and flopping around will be a distraction when fitting the links. I'll install the blades later.

That's it for these steps. Next up is the tail pitch slider!

Scott

[dunkonu23]

Originally Posted by Luigi_tuga

Thanks a lot for the effort!
Nice tips on general building also, VERY pedagogical thread!

You're welcome, Luigi! I haven't seen that word used in ages! Thank you so much!

Scott

[Luigi_tuga]

Originally Posted by dunkonu23

You're welcome, Luigi! I haven't seen that word used in ages! Thank you so much!

Scott

I used a old-fashion dictionary i had laying around

[Rob43]

It's like "Finless Scott". Dude, you have an excellent style of presenting the process! I love it!

[dunkonu23]

Originally Posted by Luigi_tuga

I used a old-fashion dictionary i had laying around

LOL! Old dictionaries are good dictionaries! I have a couple of old ones laying around, too.

Scott

[dunkonu23]

Originally Posted by Rob43

It's like "Finless Scott". Dude, you have an excellent style of presenting the process! I love it!

Thank you, bro! Thank you for all the tips you sent me. I truly appreciate it. There's more to come, but not tonight... we'll do part two of the tail build then keep moving ahead.

Scott