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Old 12-15-2012, 09:57 PM   #1
Ty89m
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Default Ball distance DS95i?

Just curious if I should follow the manual with ball distance on the DS95i servo arm, 7.5mm it the very first hole on the reinforced MKS servo horns. From the pictures I'm seeing, it looks like most people are further out on the arm. What hole is everyone using? Not sure it matters but I'm putting the tail servo on the right side of the boom like the manual show. Thanks!
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:09 PM   #2
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I know if you put it on the closest hole, you need to add trim in the vbar to stop it from binding. Where do you see it further out on the arm? I went with Scott S's placement which, and not like I haven't been wrong before :-) is on the first hole.
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:21 PM   #3
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Really isn't any good pictures, just a few in the photos thread above this one. Looks like it may be out on the second hole. I think the first hole is almost exactly 7.5mm like the manual suggests. I'll go with the first hole. Realized the reinforced MKS servo horns wont work as the ball can't sit flat if using the first or second hole. Will have to go with the standard thinner horns. Are you using the servo adapters/spacer or just screwing the 95i directly to the tail servo mounts using 4 screws?
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:45 PM   #4
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I bought some CNC piece so never used the plastic. The ball sits flat enough on the reinforced horn if you sand it a tich. Thats what I used. But the other horn would work better. You can also use the little side bits as they are 7.5mm. I don;t think there is enough room for the nut if you go beyond the second hole. I dunno.. I will look at the pics....

Well, I didn't see anything definitive.

Not many clear pics.
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Old 12-16-2012, 12:45 AM   #5
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My friend has his on the first hole. I believe it is about 7.5mm but ill have to check. He is running vBar. I flew it today and tail is perfect
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Old 12-16-2012, 12:53 AM   #6
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What metal mounts are you using instead of the plastic CrashAddict? Might go that route for the stretch build next.

Anyway, went with the first hole. Might even make up another using the small side tab on the reinforced arm. Thanks for the input.
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Old 12-16-2012, 01:15 AM   #7
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This one

MH-TX4024SE

Micro Heli. No single hole mounting for DS95, both skrews fit perfect. Adds a couple of grams. Useless bling.

http://helidirect.com/microheli-tail...rex-p-1323.hdx

They are out of stock. One on Ebay.. Phew 6 bucks shipping ripoff on it.
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Old 12-16-2012, 09:07 AM   #8
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ds95I screws into plastic stock servo mount with 2 holes on each side, no servo adapter plates needed. The servo mount is different than cyclic servo blocks in this respect. Use a standard ds95/95I servo arm with the short single holed output arm on it and cut off the two long sided arms. you do not need a metal tail servo holder especialy stretched. It just adds weight! You can just make it out in the pic below


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Old 12-16-2012, 01:36 PM   #9
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I needed the extra weight for those big arse batteries I have. I cut an inch off the control rod and it still isn;t enough. Another inch and Ill need a servo extension. Might attach helium baloon to the nose at some point.
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Old 12-16-2012, 01:53 PM   #10
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Ha! ^^^ I'm sure I'll be chasing CG issues here before long, just about to mount the motor and go back and thread-lock all the frame screws I dry fitted earlier.

Ended up just using the standard MKS horn, using the first hole on the longer arms, trimmed it down and it measures pretty darn close to 7.5mm. I'll use the short side tab on my stretch build next.

As far as positioning the tail servo, are we just trying to get the tail control rod parallel to the boom?
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Old 12-16-2012, 02:47 PM   #11
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ya parallel with boom and straight to tailcase bellcrank arm ball.
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Old 12-16-2012, 03:06 PM   #12
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Perfect, fouled up my first tail control rod while trying to adjust links so they'd pop on straight when rod was parallel with the boom... messing with those links, especially once epoxied to the metal threaded ends is a REAL pain. Gluing the replacement rod together right now, didn't screw these links all the way to the end of the threading this time, so hopefully I'll be able to adjust them a bit when it's finished drying. Been holding the end of the end of the rod (where the metal part is glued on, just below the link with pliers, as I can't figure out any better way to adjust the links. Tried to twisting one link while holding the other link and it broke the CF rod... stupid me. Least I have a few spares.

Any tips for adjust those darn links?
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Old 12-16-2012, 03:27 PM   #13
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dont put the pliers on the carbon tube If you must get one of the soda pop bottle cap rubber grips and use that between the pliers and metal link below the threaded section. If you look hard enough you can find toothless bliers. ALSO the align ball link pliers have the little half round smooth depressions on each half of the jaws.That is there for gripping the metal links. There are two sizes on them. One for pushrod wires and one for the fatter links. If the carbon fiber was not hollow you would have been fine but it is tube LOL! and easily crushed. I use the small hole for my servo to swash rods when putting on the plastic links and the large hole for the metal tail rod ends!

Here is a pic of the align ball link pliers. You can easily see the smooth round larger hole. The smaller hole for pushrod wires is there also if you look hard enough LOL!
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Old 12-16-2012, 06:29 PM   #14
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ScottS

Where did you source that canopy? Looks outstanding.
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Old 12-16-2012, 06:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiataJohn View Post
ScottS

Where did you source that canopy? Looks outstanding.
Helidirect, it is a fusuno canopy and the price is right on them also. Well made and not brittle like my stock one was, lighter than stock also. On the other hand my 500 stretch that I am building, the stock canopy that came with it is well made and not brittle or heavy! Looks like maybe a switch was made to epoxy resin vs the old polyester crap ??
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Old 12-16-2012, 06:53 PM   #16
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Thanks Scott
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Old 12-16-2012, 07:21 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scott s View Post
dont put the pliers on the carbon tube If you must get one of the soda pop bottle cap rubber grips and use that between the pliers and metal link below the threaded section. If you look hard enough you can find toothless bliers. ALSO the align ball link pliers have the little half round smooth depressions on each half of the jaws.That is there for gripping the metal links. There are two sizes on them. One for pushrod wires and one for the fatter links. If the carbon fiber was not hollow you would have been fine but it is tube LOL! and easily crushed. I use the small hole for my servo to swash rods when putting on the plastic links and the large hole for the metal tail rod ends!

Here is a pic of the align ball link pliers. You can easily see the smooth round larger hole. The smaller hole for pushrod wires is there also if you look hard enough LOL!
Wow.... how stupid can I be haha! Just looked at my ball link pliers and they too have both the larger and smaller hole.. man that would've been handy to know before struggling with the rods. Thanks though!
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