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Old 12-18-2012, 10:25 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mentalic View Post
For me I actually like the battery tray and can swap the tray faster than I can change and strap in packs in my logo 600.. I leave the lipos on the tray permanently. Would like to see a no tool required install though. Charging my Thor 6s5000's at 4c don't take very long anyway.

Installing that tail pin took me about 15seconds with hemostats. Now I did struggle with the belt for some reason, in the end it was easy, just took the belt off the large pulley.
Your right about the " would like to see a no tool required install" on the battery plate,

I leave my batteries on the plate too, its SO much easier than strapping and restrapping in my opinion

They almost got it right, if they had come up with a way to clamp that plate and attached packs down without the 4 stupid cap cap screws, they would have had it.

I hope that's ok to say here.. After all the reps should be reading this to see what their customers think in my opinion
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:01 PM   #22
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Am I missing something here? Tools required to install battery packs on the 700? You guys leave the packs strapped on the plate? Do you only have one set of batteries?

I sat up all night building my 700 yesterday, and I really can't see what you are talking about. The only thing I see needed to install battery packs is simply the Velcro straps. That being said, I rushed trough the build just to see how the final machine looks, so I could be missing something. I am waiting for some items to arrive anyways.

Excited to see how this thing flies considering all the mixed opinions here...
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:33 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathias View Post
Am I missing something here? Tools required to install battery packs on the 700? You guys leave the packs strapped on the plate? Do you only have one set of batteries?

I sat up all night building my 700 yesterday, and I really can't see what you are talking about. The only thing I see needed to install battery packs is simply the Velcro straps. That being said, I rushed trough the build just to see how the final machine looks, so I could be missing something. I am waiting for some items to arrive anyways.

Excited to see how this thing flies considering all the mixed opinions here...
Some people are using the velcro straps and keeping the cf battery plate fastened to the heli. Others find this to be a pain and actually loosen the two screws by the slide, and remove the other two screws holding the battery tray into the heli and leave the packs velcro'd to the tray. They have 1 set of packs, multiple trays, or prefer mounting the packs on the tray when it is removed from the heli.

Myself, I leave the tray in the heli and just strap the packs to the tray before each flight. I'd prefer a quick release cf battery tray setup, BUT I also don't see it being a huge deal to leave the tray and velcro straps in the heli and fasten the packs each time.

Hopefully that clears up your confusion
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:50 PM   #24
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Thanks, Steve!
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Old 12-18-2012, 01:41 PM   #25
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Steve is certainly right. its not a huge deal either way you do it. I hope someone comes up with a quick release mod. Haven't really though about it and of douse it would have to be safe...

I used to share packs between a 6s L500 and a 12 S 600Se, so never made the 12S into a stick... Now loading the 600SE was a pain compared to either way you do it on the 700. I ended up never taking both to the field to fly, so I could just leave them in the 600Se and charge between every flight. Not the nest idea I know, but at 2s it seemed pretty safe.


On the 800' I have several packs each with a plate.

On the 800 all 4 screens had slotted holes, just loosen and slide the packs back and remove. Can't drop the screws, you never take them out,

I haven't built my 700 yet, though I start Sunday. If all 4 holes aren't slotted, then they will be when I get done with the Dremel.

Either way, I do like the saddle pack idea, especially since I am going 7s on this Heli, can use the room,

On the 800 its is balanced very nicely, essy to get. Big pack in the right spot,

On the 70 I am using 7S 4400 mah packs, not that ,much heavier than 6s. It should balance ok..fingers crossed on that one.

Sorry for hijacking this thread,
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Old 12-18-2012, 03:07 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stolla View Post
As i recall you asked me to be specific about the problems, now i'm bent out of shape?. Make up your mind Shawn you are playing with words. Read my posts again, i said i liked it a lot despits the crappy things i dont like, but then NEVER ARGUE WITH A REP!
Wow ok ya it's all rep yap apparently that's why I buy and try everything? I'm not defending anything that truly needs attending and as said its been relayed? I'm forward and honest sorry if that offended you it has NOTHING to do with being a rep. I'm sorry you feel that way but as stated what you mention is very trivial as pointed out as well by NON reps at best usually those kinda things come from beginners notes is all which i did not or do not think you are, guess some commemts really suprised me being complaints....If you or anyone don't like it sell it no one will be offended not even me. I sold many that you and other folks love not cause I was a Mikado rep but rather cause they had REAL issues either on build or in flight. Enjoy what you have dispose of what you don't that is what I do. As mentioned by yourself and a few small things have allready been mentioned to Mikado and will be attended to but they're minor details really. I'm not the competition pilot, yes I'm a rep but if I didn't like it I wouldn't even post about it and wouldn't own it regardless and if you don't believe that then you don't know me one bit as that is solid truth.

Conclusion: Yours and others notes HAVE been conveyed to Mikado and WILL be noted for future things. All things if even small are appreciated indeed. What they do, change, improve etc is entirely in their control not mine.

Enter Mr. Mel's signature here I'm done as here for now as well, have good holidays everyone!!!
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Old 12-18-2012, 03:34 PM   #27
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And now is when Dave Dahl rolls in with his famous tact and somehow none of us will be aware there was ever any angst at all
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:10 PM   #28
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It's all your's fellas

I'm headed to go build a 700 while watching wrestling on WWF.
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Old 12-18-2012, 06:12 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Mathias View Post
Am I missing something here? Tools required to install battery packs on the 700? You guys leave the packs strapped on the plate? Do you only have one set of batteries?

I sat up all night building my 700 yesterday, and I really can't see what you are talking about. The only thing I see needed to install battery packs is simply the Velcro straps. That being said, I rushed trough the build just to see how the final machine looks, so I could be missing something. I am waiting for some items to arrive anyways.

Excited to see how this thing flies considering all the mixed opinions here...
Yea I'm just using one pack for now, the tray is slotted and pops in and out very easy for me, maybe 6 seconds really. The velcro I used on the packs is so freakin strong taking the packs off is a major ordeal! I did not use the velcro strips that the heli comes with...
So I pull the whole set out and charge at 4c. Go fly another heli and the 700 packs are charged. When you can buy extra battery trays for the 700 I will because its easier than straps to me.
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:09 PM   #30
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No worries fellas Definetely going to stress a quick change option on packs. Just the solution will need to be 100% reliable while in flight that's the tricky part.
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:37 PM   #31
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Yes, and the current solution puts the onus on the user, if screws not tight, battery falls out. Easy to prove it works when they are tight, liability issue solved... Not a bad solution really.

Simple

I can live with it
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:07 PM   #32
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Just checked my 700 , kit just in last week.

Battery tray will key it's way out just like the 800 does. Loosen the 4 bolts and slide forward.

I think it's a great system. Packing a 3mm driver in the TX case is far easier than all the other gear i take to field every time. Not to mention the folks who do the full on charging with genny at the field.

I know i can pull my pack out and load another one far faster than it takes a fellow flyier to load his pack into a 700e , 700n conversion takes even longer.


Granated i think the tool less setup would be cool also.

My thoughts ...

Have a shouldered cap in place onthe posts ( much like the stock bolt loosened ) , enlarge the larger holes on the battery plate as the shouldered cap will most likely be larger than the stock 3mm hex head. A tapered oval shaped piece of plastic surrounding evey hole on batt plate. Then a bracket with a spring loaded pin on it.

Batter would be placed over the 4 shouldered caps ( and thru the oval tapered things stuck to the batt plate ) then it gets slid forward (just like stock) , the oval shaped parts will cause the plate to become a tighter fit , then once in place the spring loaded pin will click into the hole in the battery plate ( will need to line up this stuff and drill batt plate) securing it in place.

To remove something small pushes into hole , or make the backside of the spring loaded pin have pull ring. Once pin out of plate it can slide back and out again.


I think it could be done.

Any thoughts ?

If anyone want to use my idea , just send me a prototype to test

Martin
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:39 PM   #33
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I've been following this too Shawn as I really thought the battery capture design would be better than it is (and I don't even have a 700 yet).

Please do continue to stress the change. An official Mikado solution would be much preferred over a "mod".

-Dave

ps, I think Martin might be on to something.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OICU812 View Post
No worries fellas Definetely going to stress a quick change option on packs. Just the solution will need to be 100% reliable while in flight that's the tricky part.
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:57 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by OICU812 View Post
Wow ok ya it's all rep yap apparently that's why I buy and try everything? I'm not defending anything that truly needs attending and as said its been relayed? I'm forward and honest sorry if that offended you it has NOTHING to do with being a rep. I'm sorry you feel that way but as stated what you mention is very trivial as pointed out as well by NON reps at best usually those kinda things come from beginners notes is all which i did not or do not think you are, guess some commemts really suprised me being complaints....If you or anyone don't like it sell it no one will be offended not even me. I sold many that you and other folks love not cause I was a Mikado rep but rather cause they had REAL issues either on build or in flight. Enjoy what you have dispose of what you don't that is what I do. As mentioned by yourself and a few small things have allready been mentioned to Mikado and will be attended to but they're minor details really. I'm not the competition pilot, yes I'm a rep but if I didn't like it I wouldn't even post about it and wouldn't own it regardless and if you don't believe that then you don't know me one bit as that is solid truth.

Conclusion: Yours and others notes HAVE been conveyed to Mikado and WILL be noted for future things. All things if even small are appreciated indeed. What they do, change, improve etc is entirely in their control not mine.

Enter Mr. Mel's signature here I'm done as here for now as well, have good holidays everyone!!!
Shawn, rest assured i'm not offended at all also not intending to sell the logo as i mentioned various times i like it and in my first post, the maiden, i posted to share how much i enjoyed the flight, so my issues and or complaints is exactly what i did on every build i ever did, on cpass the guys were angry when i complained about the crap tail, now they love the v2 tail, so i like to lay out all the cards on the table, whereas i can step on mik toes, you cant, thats why arguments like these are so entertaining for the other readers, look, already guys are making plans for improved battery trays, thats awesome and exactly why posts like these eventually brings forth better and improved equipment, yes sometimes ego's get a little bruised and i sincerely hope you recover quickly from the Rep yap referral you mention, unfortunately its the nature of the beast, you say you dont want to offend anyone but youre trying really hard though, why you blew your cover by including the comment about mr mels signature i dont know perhaps its a healing process?
Ok back to topic, lets start a mini competition for you guys, lets see who can make the best modification with the least amount of work on the removeable tray, it has the potential to be one of the best systems.
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Old 12-19-2012, 04:24 AM   #35
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Stolla last comments in this regards...

blew what cover?, recover from what? Very confusing.......Norman pointed out all same and I helped to clarify more...why the drama? Anyhooooooooooooo...I don't BS people so the Rep comments pissed me off yes, like I said if it were crap or had many worry some issues I GUARANTEE I wouldn't own one or praise it and that's that period. I call it like it is nothing less, and when there are genuine issues I also assure you or anyone I do my best to relay and continue to try to get results...Good you got concerns although small. Tell us how the 14s setup goes when you do it, be well.

Moving forward if its possible I will relay anything new but mentioned gripes here already have been processed.
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Old 12-19-2012, 04:35 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcmarty View Post
Just checked my 700 , kit just in last week.

Battery tray will key it's way out just like the 800 does. Loosen the 4 bolts and slide forward.

I think it's a great system. Packing a 3mm driver in the TX case is far easier than all the other gear i take to field every time. Not to mention the folks who do the full on charging with genny at the field.

I know i can pull my pack out and load another one far faster than it takes a fellow flyier to load his pack into a 700e , 700n conversion takes even longer.


Granated i think the tool less setup would be cool also.

My thoughts ...

Have a shouldered cap in place onthe posts ( much like the stock bolt loosened ) , enlarge the larger holes on the battery plate as the shouldered cap will most likely be larger than the stock 3mm hex head. A tapered oval shaped piece of plastic surrounding evey hole on batt plate. Then a bracket with a spring loaded pin on it.

Batter would be placed over the 4 shouldered caps ( and thru the oval tapered things stuck to the batt plate ) then it gets slid forward (just like stock) , the oval shaped parts will cause the plate to become a tighter fit , then once in place the spring loaded pin will click into the hole in the battery plate ( will need to line up this stuff and drill batt plate) securing it in place.

To remove something small pushes into hole , or make the backside of the spring loaded pin have pull ring. Once pin out of plate it can slide back and out again.


I think it could be done.

Any thoughts ?

If anyone want to use my idea , just send me a prototype to test

Martin

Neat idea yes.... What u need just tray?

You have a CNC mill or anything?
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:20 AM   #37
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I'm picturing something like this...

Have the holes on the left or the right slotted on the battery tray (one side already is if I remember correctly). Then on the other side, you use something like those pull apart keychains for attaching the tray. That way you mount the one half on the heli as the receiver and the other half pushes into that to hold the battery tray on so it cant slide out. Then when you want to take the tray out, you just push in the pins and lift the top half out, then slide the battery tray out. I've attached a picture of the keychains I mean for reference.
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:57 AM   #38
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Sadly no CNC mil for me. Sure would be nice though.

Just an idea i had after using the 800 for ~60 flights.

sgrim80 , yes that pin locking style connector. The quick release canopy connectors could be modified to fit.

The grommet would even help with shifting and vibrations.

Possible downside :

Only 1 pin locking plate in place ( making the size and integrity of that pin critical )


As for location , i'd assume towards the front. I haven't got to the battery/CG stage yet so where the battery's fit onto the plate i don't know. Certian a set of 5000's isn't that long though.

I'm also thinknig it would involve a cnc'd part that would replace the front (or rear ) posts and have a tab/section that would come back a bit to work with the pin locker. Looks like a V.

Or would a dual pin setup be better , pin the front and the back for a 1 pin backup.

Martin
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:18 AM   #39
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I was thinking 2 pins RCMarty...I'd try not to rely on one pin to hold my battery in, much like we dont rely on 1 strap LOL
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Old 12-20-2012, 09:42 PM   #40
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Stolla. I too have found the tail gain of 85 to be too high as well..... what are you using on the tail??

I am at 75 and there is still I slight oscillation,

I had major tail wag issues for the first 4 flights or so, after removing and rebuilding the tail assembly, oiling the slider assembly and oiling the carbon pushrod where it slides through the guide I seem to have solved my chronic wag ..... still just the little oscillation at gain setting of 75.......
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