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500 Class Electric Helicopters 500 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 05-21-2009, 02:33 AM   #61
enzozr
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THANKS FOR SHARING!!!
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Old 06-01-2009, 02:34 PM   #62
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Fell free to add my results here:
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=135129&page=5
Great motor, running cool, stock ESC handle it without problems, 5 minutes flight, about 1900-2000mAh charged in sport flight.
See the log.
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- TDR #1 sold (standart setup, 700+ flights)
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Old 06-01-2009, 04:07 PM   #63
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For belt drive you can't pin the boom into the block. You need to be able to slide the boom in & out to adjust tension on the belt there. I'd pin the tail case though if it's metal and isn't indexed some how.
The stock plastic case on my bird had an index pin, then I upgraded to an alum tail case that had no index pin. Cut to the chase... Hit the tail blades landing hard once with the alum case not pinned and the tail case twisted 1/4 turn clockwise tearing up the rudder servo gears.
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Old 06-16-2009, 11:17 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregor View Post
BECs
The RCE-BL60G (stock Align ESC) includes a 3a (5a burst) switching BEC. When using an ESC with linear BEC, or a ESC that doesn't have BEC, an outboard BEC is required for 6s systems. Adding an outboad BEC can reduce the ESC's operating tempature as well as reduce the potential for brownouts.
Sooo... as a new guy to electric helis (sort of), is it fine to use the stock setup or is a separate/additional BEC advisable on a 6S system?
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Old 06-16-2009, 03:25 PM   #65
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Original setup is perfectly fine, it will take you a long way. If you get tired of it just get a new engine and ESC. But the T-rex 500 is 3d capable as stock.
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Belt CP (CRASHED): TP SG-90's, control arm mod, T-Rex 450 main shaft, EK1-0704a
T-Rex 500 CF: 5245 on cyclic, JR G770 3D gyro w. 3500G, DX7
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Old 06-16-2009, 03:31 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boddan View Post
Original setup is perfectly fine, it will take you a long way. If you get tired of it just get a new engine and ESC. But the T-rex 500 is 3d capable as stock.
I don't do 3D, not interested. Was just wondering if there was some issue and a seperate bec was required.
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Old 06-16-2009, 03:49 PM   #67
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No separate bec required
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Belt CP (CRASHED): TP SG-90's, control arm mod, T-Rex 450 main shaft, EK1-0704a
T-Rex 500 CF: 5245 on cyclic, JR G770 3D gyro w. 3500G, DX7
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Old 06-17-2009, 01:15 AM   #68
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Hi everyone,

I would like to ask if anyone have experience with the carbon tail boom?
The stock alu boom always bend or break when hard landing or crashing. So I'm really thinking about upgrading it to carbon one.
Is the carbon boom worth for it? I can buy almost 6 alu booms on a price of a carbon one.

thanks
s
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Old 06-17-2009, 01:20 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeDT View Post
Hi everyone,

I would like to ask if anyone have experience with the carbon tail boom?
The stock alu boom always bend or break when hard landing or crashing. So I'm really thinking about upgrading it to carbon one.
Is the carbon boom worth for it? I can buy almost 6 alu booms on a price of a carbon one.

thanks
s
Not speaking from personal experience but I heard the carbon boom is not worth it. It has been known to eject due to it does not grip to the tailcaising as well as the metal boom. If you have belt drive it will tighten and if you have TT it can eject.

Also, if you do a hard stop I think I read it can actually break...

But this is only what I think I've read, not confirmed in any way. Just do your research prior to purchase (just as you are now )
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Belt CP (CRASHED): TP SG-90's, control arm mod, T-Rex 450 main shaft, EK1-0704a
T-Rex 500 CF: 5245 on cyclic, JR G770 3D gyro w. 3500G, DX7
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Old 06-17-2009, 02:48 AM   #70
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In my last crash the carbon boom snapped at the front boom blocks. I only had a metal one to replace it with and both seem to work well, but the carbon is just going to cost more when you crash. It might survive minimal impacts, but my crash was pretty hard.
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Old 06-17-2009, 09:52 AM   #71
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Thanks for the reply!
I stay with the Alu boom then. Maybe later I'll buy a carbon one too, just to test how it performs.
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Old 07-03-2009, 05:23 PM   #72
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Hi

I'am knew to this wonderful hobby >>

I bought the TREX 500 I supposed that I build it right . but since that I didn't fly it..

It just go spinning to the right .. any one dose know way is that happening to me ...

Thank's you all ..
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Old 07-03-2009, 08:06 PM   #73
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You just need to change direction of the gyro. If it's a 401 gyro or something like it just flip the DR switch.
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Old 07-05-2009, 08:03 AM   #74
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Default Parts: 500 ESP vs 500 GF and 500 CF

I've just ordered a 500esp and I figure I'll need to have some spares on hand, but I'm confused. I downloaded the 500 esp manual and part numbers generally don't match what I can find online. For example:

The 500esp calls the feathering shaft: 500H011. While online sites list the feathering shaft as: H50023. Are these the same part? Same thing goes for the flybar, main shaft, paddles, etc.

Forgive me if this has been asked elsewhere.

Scott
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Old 07-05-2009, 04:13 PM   #75
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Thanks I will try it but I think its from the blade cuz when I put around 50% thrust it just go spinning
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Old 07-21-2009, 03:46 PM   #76
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Default pinnedboom

hey guys someone asked about the pinned boom issue the finnless bob 5oo build shows and talks about the way to pinn the boom correct. i need a head and a metal tail block i am building my 500 gf in peices i get a part about every paycheck unless bills eat it up, where is the cheapest place to get the head the whole main head unit at/ thanks.
i need t ebay half of the 450 stuff i got laying around and then use the money to get the stuff for my 500, i cant wait to fly it!!!!!!!
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Old 09-18-2009, 06:01 PM   #77
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Xheli.com sells one for the exi 500. But I think your going to end up spending more buying piece by piece in the end with all the shipping charges. the same site also sells the exi 500 plastic kit for $77, only a few parts are plastic like the tail and some of the frame but for that price I bought two so when I crash ill have parts. Im new to helicopters
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:41 AM   #78
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Hi, how about adding the Hitec HS-225BB and HS-225MG servos for the cyclic?

Very good performance and only $20 for the BB version. I am using these and they are strong and fast.

Also, for your radio selection how about Airtronics? Top radios - low price. I have two RDS8000 systems and the quality is first class. I know that they are not as popular as the heavily advertized radios but their performance and customer support is fantastic. You can buy a RDS8000 (2.4gHz, 8ch) with battery and 8ch reciever for about $150.

And lastly....Turnigy seem to have the lowest price 6s batteries at $35 for the 20C. I find the 20C to be more than up to the job - I have a Zippy 25C to compare with and really can't tell any difference.

So, to conclude.....I got a deal on a 500CF at $300, spent $60 for the Hitec servos and $150 for a TOP radio with reciever and $35 for batteries!

......In truth, I have now upgraded my CF to ESP spec......but just for something to do!
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Old 10-16-2009, 06:03 PM   #79
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Man, a great post!! There hasn't been any mention that I saw about the Align servos that come in the ESP kit. Are they worthwhile or should they be changed out?

Thanks,

Thomas
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Old 10-24-2009, 12:29 PM   #80
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I'm still building the esp but was told from the LHS that the swash servos are fine. The tail servo is important as it has to be fast for good tail control with minimum lag from the radio signal. The kit does not have the tail servo.
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